2002 Michel Laroche / Jorge Coderch ‘Rio Azul’ Chardonnay,

Casablanca, Chile
£6.99

If you like classy white Burgundy or cool climate Chardonnay you'll love this

The combination of Jorge Coderch from Valdivieso, maker of the funky red Caballo Loco (Crazy Horse, Jorge’s nickname), and Michel Laroche, award-winning Chablis overlord, this wine should, in theory, be a stunner. Jorge knows the turf, Michel is a clean-freak, modernist, fruit capturer, who handles oak with sensitivity and style.

Well you’ll not be disappointed. This beautifully packaged wine only spends 6-8 months in French oak (1/3 new, the rest 2-3 year old). This is sufficient to kiss (well snog passionately) the Chardonnay fruit, without disturbing its cool, or upsetting its mood. The balance, texture and class of this seven-pound wine is remarkable. The 2001 vintage makes the Top 250 in The Wine List 2004, and Bibendum Wine (the agents) insist that Sainsbury’s will not move onto this 2002 for a few more months, but I have to say this wine is a triumph. 2002 is a poor vintage in theory. This wine doesn’t show it.

If you like classy white Burgundy or cool climate Margaret River Chard, then this wine will fit the bill. Particularly as it is an awful lot cheaper than wines from either of these two regions.